When you do this, they’re already aligned, making it really easy to fix potential problems, such as ghosting errors and so on. The feature to add additional layers is a god send, especially being able to layer the bracketed files back on top. However, as I said, you can bypass this by sending tiffs from Lightroom instead, and it does seem to be camera dependent. I believe that some of this may be to do with the lack of control over the RAW process, and the lack of distortion correction. The quality of my D700 files weren’t brilliant from it, but images from newer cameras, such as the X-Pro 2 were much better. Also, I have mixed feelings about the quality of the raw engine, which I believe uses Apple’s raw conversion. It really needs some kind of distortion correction for working with RAW files. I spent a couple of hours yesterday just playing around with it (and getting very little actual work done!) I know that sounds kind of trite, but it really is. In fact if I was to say what the single best feature is, it’s the fact that it’s such fun to use. There’s a lot of room for experimentation with the software, and that’s one of the great aspects of it. There are lots of presets included, and it’s easy to make your own. But that was down to me discovering the software than anything wrong with the software itself. I found that it has a tendency to create very strong punchy colours, and a few of my first attempts were a bit garish. I often found it a challenge controlling this aspect in Photomatix, but here it’s all very simple. In fact there is a slider just to control that. You can go for the more natural looking HDR or the more typical, artistic (over-processed) look. There are certainly a wide range of looks that you can get from the software, and it’s very easy to work with. For testing purposes, I tried sending the files from Lightroom, both as RAW and as Tiffs, correcting for distortion in Lightroom first. I shot using 5 bracketed images, hand held, on my D700. I went out and deliberately shot some bracketed exposures to try it out. You can also open single images and use the software’s engine to extract as much of the dynamic range as possible out of a RAW file. Depending on how you shpt the images, this may give you a grater range. Alternatively you can send RAW files over, and this it open them with their full extended range intact. Unfortunately there’s no proper lens correction in Aurora itself, but you can pre-process the images in Lightroom first. The latter option is useful if you’re shooting with a wide angle lens for example, and you want to correct for distortion in Lightroom first. You can send RAW files, or you can send Tiffs that include any adjustments that you’ve made already baked into them. There are a couple of ways to send your images from Lightroom to Aurora HDR 2017. The software works well with Lightroom too. This is really useful, and it’s something that you will often do in Photoshop when working on a HDR image to fix problems, or even just to dial it back a bit. These layers can be additional adjustments which you can mask off with either a brush, a gradient or a luminance mask, or you can layer over one of the bracketed original images. One such feature is the ability to add additional layers, complete with layer masks. It seems obvious that it was made by talking to people who actually use HDR regularly. While it does the obvious HDR merging and tone mapping, it has a good few other features, that are very useful. In the past I’ve used Photomatix as well as Lightroom’s built in HDR feature, so when I was asked if I would be interested in reviewing it, I was keen to try it out.Īurora HDR is an interesting take on HDR editing applications. While I’m not a huge HDR user I do like to dabble now and again. In addition to trying out a pre-production version of Luminar, I’ve also been looking at Macphun’s new version of their HDR software, Aurora HDR.
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